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5.18.04
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The
one with the teeth and feet
May 18, 2004
One
would think 2+ years in this land would prep me
for most “daily life” events. For the most
part it has simply by desensitizing me to the
cultural differences instead of making me more
aware of them. This is mainly good because it
indicates acclimation, but there are still when
the differences are undeniable and even
intolerable. Please allow me to share…
One
innocent day last November, I did something many
people do…I went to the orthodontist. Like many
post-braces teeth, mine have shifted a little. I
figured it would be much cheaper to get this taken
care of here than in the
U.S.
I was inspired to
do so by other
China
hands who have
gone in for braces and even pulling of wisdom
teeth in this foreign culture. New retainers
seemed so easy compared to those two adventures. I
was correct about the cost, but I highly
underestimated the amount of culture shock it
would bring upon me.
My
friend Katie also wanted to get some dental work
done, so she called up a Chinese Brother, who is
also a doctor, and asked him to accompany us. He
made us appointments with respective professionals
at the
Internal
Medicine
Hospital
. I’m not sure Doctor Matthew knew what he was getting into when he
agreed to come with us and translate, but his
volunteer work proved to be a challenge. The
orthodontist took one look at my mouth and
promptly asked if she could pull not one, two or
three but FOUR of my teeth! She insisted that my
mouth was too small (can you believe that family?
:) ) and crowded to make the teeth completely
straight. I explained (and Matthew translated)
that Americans believe it’s important to keep
all of their teeth…that she could not pull ANY
of my teeth. They didn’t seem to go for that, so
I went on to say that my American orthodontist had
straightened my teeth once, so she should be able
to do it again.
Serious
business, this was a 30-minute, exhausting
discussion. After awhile, even Matthew was trying
to convince me to have the teeth pulled! (I’m
thinking, “Can’t a sister have some support?)
He said they always pull four teeth when someone
wants orthodontia work. ~ I could hardly believe
my ears…EVERYONE allows them to pull permanent
teeth? WHERE am I? ~ I tried the persistence
technique next and repeated over and over that we
did not do that in the
U.S.
unless it was an
emergency. (Katie was already at the dentist, so I
really felt alone in my quest but not at all
inclined to back down.) In desperation (please for
give me if you feel this is not JC-like), I put
her on the spot and asked, “Will you help me or
not?” No answer. I tried again, “Are you
saying you will not help me?” The poor lady was
exasperated, too and was no doubt thinking I am
the most stubborn woman she had ever met. (I’m
sure you can definitely believe that.) I think she
really felt (and still feels) it was/is
impossible. She tried again and again (no
translation necessary because I’d learned all
the words for pulling teeth and my rebuttal at
this point) to get me to let her pull my teeth. At
one point she left the room, so I thought she was
refusing to give me the servic. In the end, she
agreed to set the retainers but made sure I knew
she was completely against it and should not hold
her responsible for the poor results. I agreed and
left not sure who had won and not really caring.
(By the way, Katie’s dentist experience wasn’t
quite so stressful but not a piece of cake
either.)
As
we were leaving the hospital, Matthew told us he
knew of a massage school nearby and asked if we
wanted free massages. Katie and I both thought
this was a wonderful remedy for the stressful
afternoon, so we walked a couple of blocks to said
school and requested feet massages. The president
said she asked the best masseuses to work on the
special foreign guests and then brought us into a
room with six big comfy chairs and lots of massage
tables. They proceeded to give us massage our
backs, shoulders, heads and arms while our feet
were soaking and then worked on our feet. It was
great! ~ It would have been totally relaxing
except person after person came into have a peak.
By the end, there were 20 pairs of eyes on us!!!!
On regular days, I’ve learned to just ham it up
or ignore. That day, my energy was zapped and I
would have done anything to blend in :).
Update: A few weeks back, Matthew accompanied me
for a check-up with the orthodontist, and this
time was much easier than the first. I feel like
we are making some good progress because she only
wanted to pull two of my teeth! Then, Matthew and
I kept tradition and got feet massages afterward.
There wasn’t one pair of extra eyes in the room.
~ It never ceases to amaze me how
interesting/funny/strange one day and experience
can vary from the next over here. One thing’s
for sure…there is never a dull moment!
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This
One's dedicated to all you NYers, anyone who used
to be and all those who have at one time enjoyed
"The City"
April 4, 2004
In
so many ways,
China
is foreign to me and the other lao wai
(foreigners) who live here. This can cause some
tense moments in daily life, so any hint of home
is cherished. Before moving to
Wuhan
,
I had the privilege of living in the Big Apple. In
comparing the two metropolises, I have come to the
conclusion that urban life is pretty similar all
over the world. I would like to share with you
some of these commonalities between NYC and WH.
Though not all pleasant, they significantly cut
down on culture shock during my time spent here
and will hopefully help you feel more connected to
this life I live across the Pacific. Not listed in
any particular order:
- Populations
around 8 million people.
- Can
go anywhere you want in the metro area on
public transportation.
- Divided
into boroughs (
Wuhan
has three
compared to NYC’s five).
- City
gardeners plant those purple and white cabbage
plants in the winter.
- Pollution
:(.
- Have
been referred to as a concrete jungle.
- Hospitals,
housing communities, schools, department
stores, etc. spread up instead of out.
- Parks
are spaced throughout the cities to offer
dwellers some glimpse of nature and places of
respite.
- Lots
of traffic ~ rush hour = almost any time
during daylight.
- Streets
are covered with an unidentified film and
smell extra rank in the heat of the summer.
- You
can only purchase what your arms can carry.
- Street-side
food vendors.
- Bodegas
selling flowers brighten your day.
- Two
main rivers on each of the city maps.
- Last
but not least, Family studies are often held
in homes.
Here’s
to finding the beauty in urban life!
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Races
March 28, 2004
Running
shoes: 585 yuan. Running
clothes: $20-30. 2003
Macau
marathon entry-fee: $20. Racing
in
China
: priceless.
Don’t
you love those commercials? They’re always
short, sweet and right on. Though I have written
about running in
China
and running as it relates to life, love and faith, I’ve not yet shared
the rest of the story. (Please forgive!) So, here
it goes…
A
month before the race, it became undeniably
obvious that my running shoes were not going to
make it. I’d been ignoring the signs for several
weeks. If I hadn’t been so stubborn, I would
have had time to get a suitable pair sent from
home. Therefore, I had a problem to solve…where
could I find marathon running shoes? Though this
is not such a difficult task in many places, my
feet are two sizes larger than what is available
in the stores here and
China
does not have
many marathoners. I finally went down to the big
sports stores and started asking for my shoe size.
“Mei you!” ~ Nike did not have one pair of
women’s running shoes in my size. I will not
diss on the other limited brands available by
name, but I knew there was not a chance that most
would have a shoe for the 26.2 mile trip ahead.
There was nothing else to do but turn to the
men’s shoes. I noticed a shoe that looked
decent, ran around a bit and asked if it was for a
“ma la son”. The store clerks just kept
saying, “ke yi” (ok! It’s possible). I think
they were just tired of this picky white woman. I
had no choice but to believe them and go off my
previous shoe-buying experience. After purchasing,
I took those snazzy silver shoes on some short
runs and a 13-miler before the race, and they
seemed fine. Problem #1 solved.
Problem
#2: transportation. Though the race was not on a
holiday week, we were still nervous about be able
to buy beds because
China
’s population is
starting to travel more and there were seven in
the travel party. Last year, we were not able to
buy beds and had to sit up all night on the way to
the race. I was worn out and felt it the whole
weekend. The group agreed we’d fork out money
for plane tickets if it came down to it. The first
time Brett and I went to buy tickets, we got the
infamous “mei you”, but the kind lady also
told us to come back the following day. We did and
were able to buy beds for everyone on the fast
train to
Guangzhou
. PTL! ~ The train
trip down was even enjoyable and restful. Then, we
were able to promptly buy return train tickets
once arriving in
Guangzhou
. (This was no
small feat as the guide book calls that train
station a “constant, seething mass of
humanity”.) Problem #2 solved.
Problem
#3: staying well. After all that running, the last
thing you want is an injury that keeps you from
completing the race. Unfortunately, two of the
Wuhan Runners Club had to throw in the towel, one
fairly early on and one 2 weeks out. The rest of
us pressed on but many were concerned about shoes
and/or training quality. Much to my chagrin I did
get injured, just 7 days before the race. However,
it wasn’t while running, like you may think. No,
I was the victim of a high-heeled boot-wearing
woman. As I was innocently riding the bus home
from a Sunday meeting, our driver slammed on his
brakes. Said woman flew through the air and came
to rest on one of my little left-foot toes. Though
I never went to the doctor, I’m quite certain it
was broken. Nearly 4 months later, it has finally
healed, but the poor thing will never look the
same.
Race
day:
December 7, 2004
. ~ I was
determined to run that race, broken toe and all.
We enjoyed a wonderful weekend in
Macau
: drinking Starbucks, eating McFlurries, taking an afternoon trip to a
Family bookstore in
Hong Kong
, and staying at
the old San Va Hospedaria, where the Wuhan Runners
Club has stayed for years. We had sunshine, clear
skies and warm weather…a welcome change from the
cold, cloudy
Wuhan
winter.
Though
I was originally scheduled to be the only WRC
member to run the full marathon, Brett and Matthew
decided to switch to the full and keep me company
as long as possible. Lance and Chris both ran and
finished the half marathon. Lara and Ingrid were
our cheerleaders and refueling crew. Brett and
Matthew kept their word and we ran a strong first
half, side-by-side. They were such an
encouragement! (Man, do I have good friends!
Remember the girl who rode her bike beside me for
20 miles?) That course would have been very lonely
without them and certainly was during the second
half when I was on my own. (Only about 500 people
ran the full marathon which is hard to imagine
when you see the thousands who run
Boston
,
Chicago
and NYC.) There
were quite a few stretches when I could not even
see another runner. For a few miles into the
second half, I was able to keep pace, but then my
knees locked up around mile 18. I had to play mind
games to convince myself that I could keep running
from that point on. (I did not want to walk!) ~
And, everyone thought the broken toe was going to
be the main challenge. Ha! It was those 585 yuan
Chinese Nikes. They were definitely not made for
running a marathon. ~ Though my time was about 15
minutes slower than I’d hoped for, I finished
(Brett did, too though he had only trained for the
half), and that was good enough. Another highlight
of the day was seeing a man in his 70s or 80s
finish around the 5 hour mark. Now, that’s
impressive!
I
haven’t run much since the marathon, usually
just once or twice a week. In fact, yoga has
become my new favorite exercise. Admittedly, I was
skeptical before trying it. Though it doesn’t
burn energy like running, it sure does relieve
stress on those difficult
China
days!
I
bet you did not know that March 8 is Women’s
Day. When I first learned of this holiday, I
assumed it would be a day of rest for working
women. That was wishful thinking :). Last year,
some students invited me to join in their
departmental celebration by singing a song.
Thankfully, my good friends Erica and Katie agreed
to accompany me. We were just one of many acts. In
the middle of these artistic displays, the girls
present played games to see who could sew a
sachet, peel an apple and cut a potato the
fastest. I could hardly believe it. I do not
consider myself a feminist, but this seemed
degrading instead of honoring!
This
year’s celebration was much less of a culture
shock. My Chinese colleagues told me a few weeks
before that they had entered me in the Women’s
Day foot race. I immediately started a protest
saying that I was not in race shape anymore. “Of
course you are.” One good friend had even been
telling teachers all over campus that I would be
the winner. I felt like I had to run or I’d
loose face. However, I was also really worried
about not winning and loosing face.
The
race was held several days before women’s day.
Almost all female faculty and staff were present.
I went dressed to run and was surprised to see
most ladies in their work clothes. They ran around
that track in boots, high-heels, nice pants, hose,
skirts, you name it. There were only a couple of
handfuls dressed in exercise clothes. Though I had
been worried all week about winning this race, it
wasn’t so bad because it was only 1000-meters
long for the under 40 and 800-meters long for the
over 40. None of the front runner ran very fast,
so I hung with them. In the end, I received 100
yuan ($12) for finishing first. ~ I’ve only won
two races in my life and they have both been at
this school :). ~ Then they gave everyone two bags
of laundry detergent, a tube of toothpaste and a
bar of soap:). On March 8 our foreign affairs
office brought us a huge bouquet of flowers and a
lovely Chinese wall hanging. I guess Women’s Day
isn’t so bad.
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A
famous American
March 21, 2004
I
assigned my culture students a one-page paper
about a famous american. Mostly, they chose to
write about NBA players or pop stars. Some chose
government officials, inventors or educators. I'm
CRACKING UP right now because the paper I just
graded was entitled, "My Teacher - Linda
Benthall". Isn't that hysterical? I think
I'll save this as a keepsake, because he might be
the only person to ever think I'm famous, HA!. The
skeptical side of me thinks he's buttering me up,
but it's cute nonetheless. Though his insight on
my class is really good, he didn't include any of
the personal stats I required (birth, hometown,
family, education), so I'll have to have him
choose another person or interview me and write it
over:) ~ I know. I’m so strict! ~ Hope you get a
good laugh today! |
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Wuhan
Definitions
March 7, 2004
Though
Chinese culture is definitely different from
American, technology and development have brought
many Western ideas across the great pond. The
locals have accepted some, rejected others and
simply adapted most to the local need. Many times,
the occidental and oriental are juxtaposed in such
a strange manner that the only possible reaction
(by expats) is laughter and amazement because
trying to figure out the local reasoning, or worse
yet attempting to set them “straight”, would
just give you a headache at best. I hope you will
enjoy this short list of some local connotations
and words (shout out to former Teachers, Mike and
Cathy, for the top three):
*
Copyright
– you have the right to make as many copies as
you want.
* Energy
conservation – while driving your bus,
car, motorcycle or mamu at night, make certain to
never use your headlights because doing so will
waste gas.
*
Mamu
(RIP) – a form of transportation, akin to the
rickshaw, but with a motorcycle attached to the
front; would make a fabulous
Disneyland
ride, except for
the massive liability issues. (See attached
picture ~ though these have been outlawed in
Wuhan
, they still
exist in many cities.)
*
Dressing
room – occasionally the back corner of
the shop. (Rest assured foreigners often get
special treatment. I have never had to try on
clothes without a piece of fabric being held in
front of me. Mostly, they let you use the stock
closet.)
* Maybe
– a definite yes or no depending on the
direction they are leaning (ex: “maybe I can’t
come” = I have no intention of coming.) Warning:
it rarely means perhaps or possibly like it does
in the
U.S.
*
Personal
space – the section of the atmosphere
that your person occupies plus one inch.
*
Politically
Correct – those who follow the communist
party.
*
Wuhan
traffic laws
(for pedestrians, bicycles, motorcycles and all
forms of automobiles):
1.
Never look when entering traffic because doing so
before merging, turning or crossing the street
would confuse
everyone and possibly bring order to
the chaos.
2.
Traffic lights are merely a suggestion. You do not
have to stop just before or soon after it turns
red, and you
shouldn’t assume that others will
either.
3.
You many drive down either side of the road or
sidewalk as long as you are skilled enough to miss
the cars and
people following the suggested flow
of traffic.
4.
Never drive the speed limit.
5.
How to properly use your horn:
a.
Honk when you see a lao wai (foreigner)
b.
Honk once or twice when you see a pedestrian
crossing the road.
c.
Honk 10 times if you see a pedestrian and do not
plan to change your course to miss them.
d.
Honk as often as possible in order to inform other
automobiles you are still on the road.
e.
Honk when you don’t know what else to do.
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WUST
verse #4
February 23, 2004
Alas,
I am alive and not even rotting in a Chinese jail.
I am truly sorry it has been so long since I've
contacted many of you personally. The craziness of
December put me deeper into email jail (as we
fondly called it at CNA Life), and then, the
semester break of travel and attempted rest sent
me to solitary confinement:). However, I am slowly
hammering out and wanted to drop a short note to
you in the meantime.
A
special thanks to all of you who have continued to
email and even sent special holiday greetings and
goodies despite the miles and lack of response on
my part. Your communication made spending the
holidays away from "home" so much easier
and coming back to my "home" in
China
even better. I thank Dad for you!!!
We
have just begun our spring semester here in
China
.
School duties become more and more comfortable the
longer I'm here, though I still get warn out from
teaching. My only real complaint is that the
number of student's I see in one semester
continues to rise. In December, I turned in grades
for 500 (that's not an exaggeration!)
students...barely escaping with my brain.
Unfortunately, this semester won't be any better.
It's awfully hard to truly impact an individual
when you are dealing with so many, but I yarp He
is somehow using me to do more than teach oral
English and American culture.
I hope you are all doing and
well and enjoying yourselves in this year of the
monkey.
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On
the Road Again
November 11, 2003
Before
coming back to
Wuhan
in August, I decided I would not be running any
races this year. Training became such a chore last
fall that I could barely make myself run during
the spring semester. Even though running on quiet
streets and with clean air renewed my joy for the
activity this summer, I didn’t want to ruin that
by training in this dirty, polluted city.
Much
to my chagrin, several teammates came back
thinking the opposite. They were determined to
carry on the tradition of having Wuhan Teachers
running in the
Macau
race held the first Sunday of every December.
I’d be lying if I said they begged me to join
them. They didn’t. They simply said they were
going to and that I should, too. My first question
was: “Are you really serious about this? Because
if you aren’t, I start training and you back
out…there will be trouble in our friendship”
(said in half jest). They promised, and I could
not resist. Marathoning is like this bug of which
you can’t get rid! Though the other members of
Team Wuhan are running the half-marathon, I
decided to train for the full. I guess I thought
this might be my last opportunity to run one is
Asia
to just carpe diem.
I
can’t put my finger on why training has been
better, more fun than last year, but it has.
Perhaps it’s because I know these streets,
traffic and weather from the onset. Perhaps my
body was just ready for the challenge again.
Perhaps I’m just tougher…ha! One thing I know
for certain is that I will no longer chastise
those who run with music. That portable CD player
is the only thing that kept me running 2 days a
week last spring and has definitely contributed to
this semester’s training bliss. It’s like
magic. It totally helps me escape the street
noise, creating a special little world in which I
can pound the pavement and feel like it’s just
me and the road again…the other eight million
people on foot, bicycles, motorcycles and buses
just disappear. And, I am now able to ignore the
stairs or return them with a smile.
After
making the initial decision to run the full
marathon, I was a little worried about having
enough time to train. I thought to myself, “I
can count on two hands the number of times I ran
this summer. There is only three months left to
train. Am I crazy?” But then aren’t all
marathoners? :) All reason aside, I pulled a
schedule off Runnersworld.com and went to work.
It’s been a love affair ever since. I mean
that…until Saturday. That is my designated long
run day, which means no late Friday nights and no
sleeping in. This is fine since the weather has
been really nice this fall. Well, winter arrived
last week, and I had to run 15 miles in 40-degree
rain on Saturday. It was not bliss. However, it
felt great to persevere despite the conditions.
Perseverance.
This is what marathons are about and why this
sport is such a great analogy to faith, life and
love. The hard part of a marathon is not the race
itself, though that is indeed a challenge! The
hard part is the months of running that precede
the race, because conditions, roads and air are
not always favorable. However, you keep on running
in order to reach a finish line you cannot yet
see. Each mile helps. Each bump refines. Each run
teaches. You have to believe that and persevere.
Enough
of the theory. I’d like to share one more thing
with you. A couple of weeks ago, I was scheduled
to run 20-miles…a daunting task. During a chance
meeting on the street with my friend Joanna, she
pledged to ride her bike beside me. “Joanna,”
I said, “that’s really kind of you, but I have
to leave at
6:30
Saturday morning. Are you sure you want to do
this?” “Yes,” she said. I asked three more
times, because Chinese people often don’t show
their true desire until the fourth offer. She
still insisted. That Sister kept her word! She
rode her bike beside me for 20 miles, giving me
water and bananas, singing me songs, talking about
how Dad has been blessing her. I still cannot
believe it. Praise Him for friends!! |
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When
in Rome...
September 12, 2003
It’s
been two and a half weeks since I left the
U.S.
, but it feels
like so much longer. I have had lots of good
reunions with friends and family here, and I’m
happy to say it felt like returning “home”
upon arrival. Days have been full of re-stocking
the apartment, helping others get adjusted and
settled for the first time, preparing for and
teaching class. The university was even fairly
prepared for us this time :). They had our class
schedules ready (darn it!) and told us about the
teachers’ meeting two days in advance! ~
Nonetheless, there are holes left by those of you
I left at “home”. I hope this finds you well.
There
are times during my stay in this vast kingdom that
I long for the familiar customs of my
“homeland”. I look around me and feel as
foreign as they think I am because understanding,
not to mention assimilating, feels impossible. At
that time, I wonder how this ancient culture can
be such a mystery to me when it envelops more than
a billion with little effort.
Today,
however, I am glad for some of their centuries-old
customs. It is mid-autumn festival in
China
…the 15th
day of the 8th month on the lunar
calendar. The moon is full, brilliant and solid,
and all are supposed to gaze upon this
illumination and think about family in other
places. The school president hosted a lively
banquet for all of the foreign teachers and office
workers to assure us we are apart of their large
family. We sampled many (I admit not all) dishes
and participated by giving the required
performance of the guest, singing karaoke and
toasting to health, cooperation and happiness. It
was an enjoyable evening, and I appreciate their
effort to include us in their traditions.
As my ears are filled with the fireworks bursting
nearby, I willingly embrace this holiday and think
of you. Though the moon is visible out my window
and not yours, it is comforting to know you will
be under the same glow in just a matter of hours.
Here is to a shared moon because it equals a
shared land, no matter upon what side you rest.
To
all you former China-hands, I wish I could share
the eight mooncakes I received with you, because I
know your mouths are watering at the mention :).
Beyond
that, I praise Him for the true Light that is
never out shone for it is the one that links us
eternally. May we follow it and reflect it even
more constantly than the moon reflects the sun. |
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Home
sweet home
June 24, 2003
I
had great intentions of writing a last poetic,
nostalgic email from Wuhan. Giving final exams,
recording grades, saying temporary good-byes,
helping plan Family meetings for the summer,
packing and such ate my time before that could
happen. I was blessed with safe travels and
arrived on American soil late Friday night, June
20.
Being
here feels both strange and familiar. Home is a
word with deep meaning. I am thankful to be here
and yet already missing my friends and family in
China. A songwriter once penned a favorite of my
earthly family, "This world is not my home.
I'm just a passing through. My treasure's are laid
up, somewhere beyond the blue..." In the last
10 months, these words have wakened feelings in me
that have been dormant since my last tour to
China. How often, no matter how hard we fight, do
we build treasures on earth! Yet, this planet,
this blessed country, is not reality. What lies
beyond the heavens, in a spiritual realm I have
ever-increasing faith in, is our real home. Yet
now, with two months in the U.S. at my disposal, I
realize I feel like I have several homes on this
earth. MO, AR, TN, NY and China, too. These places
and several others, hold people I love dearly and
have missed terribly. Is that OK? I think so. I
hope so. Our Father gave us these relationships to
help us on towards His home.
So,
I plan to visit as many family and friends as
possible while refueling for another year in
central China. Thank you all for the love and
support you've offered up over the last 10 months.
It has been felt and appreciated beyond what you
may ever know. I look forward to telling you more
specifics via email if not in person.
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