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The one with the teeth and feet
May 18, 2004

One would think 2+ years in this land would prep me for most “daily life” events. For the most part it has simply by desensitizing me to the cultural differences instead of making me more aware of them. This is mainly good because it indicates acclimation, but there are still when the differences are undeniable and even intolerable. Please allow me to share…  

One innocent day last November, I did something many people do…I went to the orthodontist. Like many post-braces teeth, mine have shifted a little. I figured it would be much cheaper to get this taken care of here than in the U.S. I was inspired to do so by other China hands who have gone in for braces and even pulling of wisdom teeth in this foreign culture. New retainers seemed so easy compared to those two adventures. I was correct about the cost, but I highly underestimated the amount of culture shock it would bring upon me.  

My friend Katie also wanted to get some dental work done, so she called up a Chinese Brother, who is also a doctor, and asked him to accompany us. He made us appointments with respective professionals at the Internal Medicine Hospital . I’m not sure Doctor Matthew knew what he was getting into when he agreed to come with us and translate, but his volunteer work proved to be a challenge. The orthodontist took one look at my mouth and promptly asked if she could pull not one, two or three but FOUR of my teeth! She insisted that my mouth was too small (can you believe that family? :) ) and crowded to make the teeth completely straight. I explained (and Matthew translated) that Americans believe it’s important to keep all of their teeth…that she could not pull ANY of my teeth. They didn’t seem to go for that, so I went on to say that my American orthodontist had straightened my teeth once, so she should be able to do it again.  

Serious business, this was a 30-minute, exhausting discussion. After awhile, even Matthew was trying to convince me to have the teeth pulled! (I’m thinking, “Can’t a sister have some support?) He said they always pull four teeth when someone wants orthodontia work. ~ I could hardly believe my ears…EVERYONE allows them to pull permanent teeth? WHERE am I? ~ I tried the persistence technique next and repeated over and over that we did not do that in the U.S. unless it was an emergency. (Katie was already at the dentist, so I really felt alone in my quest but not at all inclined to back down.) In desperation (please for give me if you feel this is not JC-like), I put her on the spot and asked, “Will you help me or not?” No answer. I tried again, “Are you saying you will not help me?” The poor lady was exasperated, too and was no doubt thinking I am the most stubborn woman she had ever met. (I’m sure you can definitely believe that.) I think she really felt (and still feels) it was/is impossible. She tried again and again (no translation necessary because I’d learned all the words for pulling teeth and my rebuttal at this point) to get me to let her pull my teeth. At one point she left the room, so I thought she was refusing to give me the servic. In the end, she agreed to set the retainers but made sure I knew she was completely against it and should not hold her responsible for the poor results. I agreed and left not sure who had won and not really caring. (By the way, Katie’s dentist experience wasn’t quite so stressful but not a piece of cake either.)

As we were leaving the hospital, Matthew told us he knew of a massage school nearby and asked if we wanted free massages. Katie and I both thought this was a wonderful remedy for the stressful afternoon, so we walked a couple of blocks to said school and requested feet massages. The president said she asked the best masseuses to work on the special foreign guests and then brought us into a room with six big comfy chairs and lots of massage tables. They proceeded to give us massage our backs, shoulders, heads and arms while our feet were soaking and then worked on our feet. It was great! ~ It would have been totally relaxing except person after person came into have a peak. By the end, there were 20 pairs of eyes on us!!!! On regular days, I’ve learned to just ham it up or ignore. That day, my energy was zapped and I would have done anything to blend in :).

Update: A few weeks back, Matthew accompanied me for a check-up with the orthodontist, and this time was much easier than the first. I feel like we are making some good progress because she only wanted to pull two of my teeth! Then, Matthew and I kept tradition and got feet massages afterward. There wasn’t one pair of extra eyes in the room. ~ It never ceases to amaze me how interesting/funny/strange one day and experience can vary from the next over here. One thing’s for sure…there is never a dull moment!

This One's dedicated to all you NYers, anyone who used to be and all those who have at one time enjoyed "The City"
April 4, 2004

In so many ways, China is foreign to me and the other lao wai (foreigners) who live here. This can cause some tense moments in daily life, so any hint of home is cherished. Before moving to Wuhan , I had the privilege of living in the Big Apple. In comparing the two metropolises, I have come to the conclusion that urban life is pretty similar all over the world. I would like to share with you some of these commonalities between NYC and WH. Though not all pleasant, they significantly cut down on culture shock during my time spent here and will hopefully help you feel more connected to this life I live across the Pacific. Not listed in any particular order:  

  1. Populations around 8 million people.
  2. Can go anywhere you want in the metro area on public transportation.
  3. Divided into boroughs ( Wuhan has three compared to NYC’s five).
  4. City gardeners plant those purple and white cabbage plants in the winter.
  5. Pollution :(.
  6. Have been referred to as a concrete jungle.
  7. Hospitals, housing communities, schools, department stores, etc. spread up instead of out.
  8. Parks are spaced throughout the cities to offer dwellers some glimpse of nature and places of respite.
  9. Lots of traffic ~ rush hour = almost any time during daylight.
  10. Streets are covered with an unidentified film and smell extra rank in the heat of the summer.
  11. You can only purchase what your arms can carry.
  12. Street-side food vendors.
  13. Bodegas selling flowers brighten your day.
  14. Two main rivers on each of the city maps.
  15. Last but not least, Family studies are often held in homes.

Here’s to finding the beauty in urban life!

Races
March 28, 2004

Running shoes: 585 yuan. Running clothes: $20-30. 2003 Macau marathon entry-fee: $20. Racing in China : priceless.

Don’t you love those commercials? They’re always short, sweet and right on. Though I have written about running in China and running as it relates to life, love and faith, I’ve not yet shared the rest of the story. (Please forgive!) So, here it goes…

A month before the race, it became undeniably obvious that my running shoes were not going to make it. I’d been ignoring the signs for several weeks. If I hadn’t been so stubborn, I would have had time to get a suitable pair sent from home. Therefore, I had a problem to solve…where could I find marathon running shoes? Though this is not such a difficult task in many places, my feet are two sizes larger than what is available in the stores here and China does not have many marathoners. I finally went down to the big sports stores and started asking for my shoe size. “Mei you!” ~ Nike did not have one pair of women’s running shoes in my size. I will not diss on the other limited brands available by name, but I knew there was not a chance that most would have a shoe for the 26.2 mile trip ahead. There was nothing else to do but turn to the men’s shoes. I noticed a shoe that looked decent, ran around a bit and asked if it was for a “ma la son”. The store clerks just kept saying, “ke yi” (ok! It’s possible). I think they were just tired of this picky white woman. I had no choice but to believe them and go off my previous shoe-buying experience. After purchasing, I took those snazzy silver shoes on some short runs and a 13-miler before the race, and they seemed fine. Problem #1 solved.

Problem #2: transportation. Though the race was not on a holiday week, we were still nervous about be able to buy beds because China ’s population is starting to travel more and there were seven in the travel party. Last year, we were not able to buy beds and had to sit up all night on the way to the race. I was worn out and felt it the whole weekend. The group agreed we’d fork out money for plane tickets if it came down to it. The first time Brett and I went to buy tickets, we got the infamous “mei you”, but the kind lady also told us to come back the following day. We did and were able to buy beds for everyone on the fast train to Guangzhou . PTL! ~ The train trip down was even enjoyable and restful. Then, we were able to promptly buy return train tickets once arriving in Guangzhou . (This was no small feat as the guide book calls that train station a “constant, seething mass of humanity”.) Problem #2 solved.

Problem #3: staying well. After all that running, the last thing you want is an injury that keeps you from completing the race. Unfortunately, two of the Wuhan Runners Club had to throw in the towel, one fairly early on and one 2 weeks out. The rest of us pressed on but many were concerned about shoes and/or training quality. Much to my chagrin I did get injured, just 7 days before the race. However, it wasn’t while running, like you may think. No, I was the victim of a high-heeled boot-wearing woman. As I was innocently riding the bus home from a Sunday meeting, our driver slammed on his brakes. Said woman flew through the air and came to rest on one of my little left-foot toes. Though I never went to the doctor, I’m quite certain it was broken. Nearly 4 months later, it has finally healed, but the poor thing will never look the same.

Race day: December 7, 2004 . ~ I was determined to run that race, broken toe and all. We enjoyed a wonderful weekend in Macau : drinking Starbucks, eating McFlurries, taking an afternoon trip to a Family bookstore in Hong Kong , and staying at the old San Va Hospedaria, where the Wuhan Runners Club has stayed for years. We had sunshine, clear skies and warm weather…a welcome change from the cold, cloudy Wuhan winter.

Though I was originally scheduled to be the only WRC member to run the full marathon, Brett and Matthew decided to switch to the full and keep me company as long as possible. Lance and Chris both ran and finished the half marathon. Lara and Ingrid were our cheerleaders and refueling crew. Brett and Matthew kept their word and we ran a strong first half, side-by-side. They were such an encouragement! (Man, do I have good friends! Remember the girl who rode her bike beside me for 20 miles?) That course would have been very lonely without them and certainly was during the second half when I was on my own. (Only about 500 people ran the full marathon which is hard to imagine when you see the thousands who run Boston , Chicago and NYC.) There were quite a few stretches when I could not even see another runner. For a few miles into the second half, I was able to keep pace, but then my knees locked up around mile 18. I had to play mind games to convince myself that I could keep running from that point on. (I did not want to walk!) ~ And, everyone thought the broken toe was going to be the main challenge. Ha! It was those 585 yuan Chinese Nikes. They were definitely not made for running a marathon. ~ Though my time was about 15 minutes slower than I’d hoped for, I finished (Brett did, too though he had only trained for the half), and that was good enough. Another highlight of the day was seeing a man in his 70s or 80s finish around the 5 hour mark. Now, that’s impressive!

I haven’t run much since the marathon, usually just once or twice a week. In fact, yoga has become my new favorite exercise. Admittedly, I was skeptical before trying it. Though it doesn’t burn energy like running, it sure does relieve stress on those difficult China days!

I bet you did not know that March 8 is Women’s Day. When I first learned of this holiday, I assumed it would be a day of rest for working women. That was wishful thinking :). Last year, some students invited me to join in their departmental celebration by singing a song. Thankfully, my good friends Erica and Katie agreed to accompany me. We were just one of many acts. In the middle of these artistic displays, the girls present played games to see who could sew a sachet, peel an apple and cut a potato the fastest. I could hardly believe it. I do not consider myself a feminist, but this seemed degrading instead of honoring!

This year’s celebration was much less of a culture shock. My Chinese colleagues told me a few weeks before that they had entered me in the Women’s Day foot race. I immediately started a protest saying that I was not in race shape anymore. “Of course you are.” One good friend had even been telling teachers all over campus that I would be the winner. I felt like I had to run or I’d loose face. However, I was also really worried about not winning and loosing face.

The race was held several days before women’s day. Almost all female faculty and staff were present. I went dressed to run and was surprised to see most ladies in their work clothes. They ran around that track in boots, high-heels, nice pants, hose, skirts, you name it. There were only a couple of handfuls dressed in exercise clothes. Though I had been worried all week about winning this race, it wasn’t so bad because it was only 1000-meters long for the under 40 and 800-meters long for the over 40. None of the front runner ran very fast, so I hung with them. In the end, I received 100 yuan ($12) for finishing first. ~ I’ve only won two races in my life and they have both been at this school :). ~ Then they gave everyone two bags of laundry detergent, a tube of toothpaste and a bar of soap:). On March 8 our foreign affairs office brought us a huge bouquet of flowers and a lovely Chinese wall hanging. I guess Women’s Day isn’t so bad.

A famous American
March 21, 2004

I assigned my culture students a one-page paper about a famous american. Mostly, they chose to write about NBA players or pop stars. Some chose government officials, inventors or educators. I'm CRACKING UP right now because the paper I just graded was entitled, "My Teacher - Linda Benthall". Isn't that hysterical? I think I'll save this as a keepsake, because he might be the only person to ever think I'm famous, HA!. The skeptical side of me thinks he's buttering me up, but it's cute nonetheless. Though his insight on my class is really good, he didn't include any of the personal stats I required (birth, hometown, family, education), so I'll have to have him choose another person or interview me and write it over:) ~ I know. I’m so strict! ~ Hope you get a good laugh today!
Wuhan Definitions
March 7, 2004

Though Chinese culture is definitely different from American, technology and development have brought many Western ideas across the great pond. The locals have accepted some, rejected others and simply adapted most to the local need. Many times, the occidental and oriental are juxtaposed in such a strange manner that the only possible reaction (by expats) is laughter and amazement because trying to figure out the local reasoning, or worse yet attempting to set them “straight”, would just give you a headache at best. I hope you will enjoy this short list of some local connotations and words (shout out to former Teachers, Mike and Cathy, for the top three):

* Copyright – you have the right to make as many copies as you want.

* Energy conservation – while driving your bus, car, motorcycle or mamu at night, make certain to never use your headlights because doing so will waste gas.

* Mamu (RIP) – a form of transportation, akin to the rickshaw, but with a motorcycle attached to the front; would make a fabulous Disneyland ride, except for the massive liability issues. (See attached picture ~ though these have been outlawed in Wuhan , they still exist in many cities.)

* Dressing room – occasionally the back corner of the shop. (Rest assured foreigners often get special treatment. I have never had to try on clothes without a piece of fabric being held in front of me. Mostly, they let you use the stock closet.)

* Maybe – a definite yes or no depending on the direction they are leaning (ex: “maybe I can’t come” = I have no intention of coming.) Warning: it rarely means perhaps or possibly like it does in the
U.S.

* Personal space – the section of the atmosphere that your person occupies plus one inch.

* Politically Correct – those who follow the communist party.

* Wuhan traffic laws (for pedestrians, bicycles, motorcycles and all forms of automobiles):

1. Never look when entering traffic because doing so before merging, turning or crossing the street would confuse 

everyone and possibly bring order to the chaos.

2. Traffic lights are merely a suggestion. You do not have to stop just before or soon after it turns red, and you 

shouldn’t assume that others will either.

3. You many drive down either side of the road or sidewalk as long as you are skilled enough to miss the cars and 

people following the suggested flow of traffic.

4. Never drive the speed limit.

5. How to properly use your horn:

a. Honk when you see a lao wai (foreigner)  

b. Honk once or twice when you see a pedestrian crossing the road.  

c. Honk 10 times if you see a pedestrian and do not plan to change your course to miss them.  

d. Honk as often as possible in order to inform other automobiles you are still on the road.

e. Honk when you don’t know what else to do.

WUST verse #4
February 23, 2004

Alas, I am alive and not even rotting in a Chinese jail. I am truly sorry it has been so long since I've contacted many of you personally. The craziness of December put me deeper into email jail (as we fondly called it at CNA Life), and then, the semester break of travel and attempted rest sent me to solitary confinement:). However, I am slowly hammering out and wanted to drop a short note to you in the meantime.  

A special thanks to all of you who have continued to email and even sent special holiday greetings and goodies despite the miles and lack of response on my part. Your communication made spending the holidays away from "home" so much easier and coming back to my "home" in China even better. I thank Dad for you!!!  

We have just begun our spring semester here in China . School duties become more and more comfortable the longer I'm here, though I still get warn out from teaching. My only real complaint is that the number of student's I see in one semester continues to rise. In December, I turned in grades for 500 (that's not an exaggeration!) students...barely escaping with my brain. Unfortunately, this semester won't be any better. It's awfully hard to truly impact an individual when you are dealing with so many, but I yarp He is somehow using me to do more than teach oral English and American culture.  

I hope you are all doing and well and enjoying yourselves in this year of the monkey.
On the Road Again
November 11, 2003

Before coming back to Wuhan in August, I decided I would not be running any races this year. Training became such a chore last fall that I could barely make myself run during the spring semester. Even though running on quiet streets and with clean air renewed my joy for the activity this summer, I didn’t want to ruin that by training in this dirty, polluted city.

Much to my chagrin, several teammates came back thinking the opposite. They were determined to carry on the tradition of having Wuhan Teachers running in the Macau race held the first Sunday of every December. I’d be lying if I said they begged me to join them. They didn’t. They simply said they were going to and that I should, too. My first question was: “Are you really serious about this? Because if you aren’t, I start training and you back out…there will be trouble in our friendship” (said in half jest). They promised, and I could not resist. Marathoning is like this bug of which you can’t get rid! Though the other members of Team Wuhan are running the half-marathon, I decided to train for the full. I guess I thought this might be my last opportunity to run one is Asia to just carpe diem.

I can’t put my finger on why training has been better, more fun than last year, but it has. Perhaps it’s because I know these streets, traffic and weather from the onset. Perhaps my body was just ready for the challenge again. Perhaps I’m just tougher…ha! One thing I know for certain is that I will no longer chastise those who run with music. That portable CD player is the only thing that kept me running 2 days a week last spring and has definitely contributed to this semester’s training bliss. It’s like magic. It totally helps me escape the street noise, creating a special little world in which I can pound the pavement and feel like it’s just me and the road again…the other eight million people on foot, bicycles, motorcycles and buses just disappear. And, I am now able to ignore the stairs or return them with a smile.

After making the initial decision to run the full marathon, I was a little worried about having enough time to train. I thought to myself, “I can count on two hands the number of times I ran this summer. There is only three months left to train. Am I crazy?” But then aren’t all marathoners? :) All reason aside, I pulled a schedule off Runnersworld.com and went to work. It’s been a love affair ever since. I mean that…until Saturday. That is my designated long run day, which means no late Friday nights and no sleeping in. This is fine since the weather has been really nice this fall. Well, winter arrived last week, and I had to run 15 miles in 40-degree rain on Saturday. It was not bliss. However, it felt great to persevere despite the conditions.

Perseverance. This is what marathons are about and why this sport is such a great analogy to faith, life and love. The hard part of a marathon is not the race itself, though that is indeed a challenge! The hard part is the months of running that precede the race, because conditions, roads and air are not always favorable. However, you keep on running in order to reach a finish line you cannot yet see. Each mile helps. Each bump refines. Each run teaches. You have to believe that and persevere.

Enough of the theory. I’d like to share one more thing with you. A couple of weeks ago, I was scheduled to run 20-miles…a daunting task. During a chance meeting on the street with my friend Joanna, she pledged to ride her bike beside me. “Joanna,” I said, “that’s really kind of you, but I have to leave at 6:30 Saturday morning. Are you sure you want to do this?” “Yes,” she said. I asked three more times, because Chinese people often don’t show their true desire until the fourth offer. She still insisted. That Sister kept her word! She rode her bike beside me for 20 miles, giving me water and bananas, singing me songs, talking about how Dad has been blessing her. I still cannot believe it. Praise Him for friends!!

When in Rome...
September 12, 2003

It’s been two and a half weeks since I left the U.S. , but it feels like so much longer. I have had lots of good reunions with friends and family here, and I’m happy to say it felt like returning “home” upon arrival. Days have been full of re-stocking the apartment, helping others get adjusted and settled for the first time, preparing for and teaching class. The university was even fairly prepared for us this time :). They had our class schedules ready (darn it!) and told us about the teachers’ meeting two days in advance! ~ Nonetheless, there are holes left by those of you I left at “home”. I hope this finds you well.

There are times during my stay in this vast kingdom that I long for the familiar customs of my “homeland”. I look around me and feel as foreign as they think I am because understanding, not to mention assimilating, feels impossible. At that time, I wonder how this ancient culture can be such a mystery to me when it envelops more than a billion with little effort.

Today, however, I am glad for some of their centuries-old customs. It is mid-autumn festival in China …the 15th day of the 8th month on the lunar calendar. The moon is full, brilliant and solid, and all are supposed to gaze upon this illumination and think about family in other places. The school president hosted a lively banquet for all of the foreign teachers and office workers to assure us we are apart of their large family. We sampled many (I admit not all) dishes and participated by giving the required performance of the guest, singing karaoke and toasting to health, cooperation and happiness. It was an enjoyable evening, and I appreciate their effort to include us in their traditions.

As my ears are filled with the fireworks bursting nearby, I willingly embrace this holiday and think of you. Though the moon is visible out my window and not yours, it is comforting to know you will be under the same glow in just a matter of hours. Here is to a shared moon because it equals a shared land, no matter upon what side you rest.

To all you former China-hands, I wish I could share the eight mooncakes I received with you, because I know your mouths are watering at the mention :).

Beyond that, I praise Him for the true Light that is never out shone for it is the one that links us eternally. May we follow it and reflect it even more constantly than the moon reflects the sun.

Home sweet home
June 24, 2003

I had great intentions of writing a last poetic, nostalgic email from Wuhan. Giving final exams, recording grades, saying temporary good-byes, helping plan Family meetings for the summer, packing and such ate my time before that could happen. I was blessed with safe travels and arrived on American soil late Friday night, June 20. 

Being here feels both strange and familiar. Home is a word with deep meaning. I am thankful to be here and yet already missing my friends and family in China. A songwriter once penned a favorite of my earthly family, "This world is not my home. I'm just a passing through. My treasure's are laid up, somewhere beyond the blue..." In the last 10 months, these words have wakened feelings in me that have been dormant since my last tour to China. How often, no matter how hard we fight, do we build treasures on earth! Yet, this planet, this blessed country, is not reality. What lies beyond the heavens, in a spiritual realm I have ever-increasing faith in, is our real home. Yet now, with two months in the U.S. at my disposal, I realize I feel like I have several homes on this earth. MO, AR, TN, NY and China, too. These places and several others, hold people I love dearly and have missed terribly. Is that OK? I think so. I hope so. Our Father gave us these relationships to help us on towards His home. 

So, I plan to visit as many family and friends as possible while refueling for another year in central China. Thank you all for the love and support you've offered up over the last 10 months. It has been felt and appreciated beyond what you may ever know. I look forward to telling you more specifics via email if not in person.

© 2002 Linda Benthall | All rights reserved.  
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